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TOOLS

& TECHNIQUES

  • 1-2 O-tips

  • 2 Micro Brushes

  • Pigment Mixer

  • Small I Large Pigment Cap Holder

  • 2 Small I Large Pigment Cups

  • 1 Small I Large Caps

  • Zone 1

  • Zone2

  • Super T

  • Vaseline

  • 1 Small I Large CapsA&D Ointment

  • 1 Disposable Bib for client

  • Barrier Film or Saran Wrap

  • Gloves

  • Eye Pencil

  • 1 Small I Large CapsA&D Ointment

  • 1 Disposable Bib for client

  • Barrier Film or Saran Wrap


HOLDING YOUR MACHINE

Holding your machine correctly entails much more than getting a firm grip on it and implanting pig-ment. Some basic things to remember when holding your machine include:Hold the machine as if you are holding a pen or pencil.You will eventually get used to the “heavy” feeling from the weight of the machine. After only a fewprocedures, it will feel quite natural.

  • Rest your pinky on their skin

  • Use short, small strokes

  • Move the machine with your finger

  • Hold your machine upright

  • Go slow! The faster you go, the less color stays in


TECHNIQUES

& NEEDLES


GRIP:

  • Stretch - Evenly taunt

  • Pinch - Thumb & Forefinger

  • Scissor


GRIP:

  • Single Needle

  • 2 Prong Needle

  • 3 Prong Needle

  • 5 Point Needle

  • 7 Prong Needle


THE BIGGER THE NEEDLE, THE LESS PENETRATION

THE SMALLER THE NEEDLE, THE MORE PENETRATION



CAPS FOR NEEDLES:

  • Rest your pinky on your client’s skin

  • Use short, small strokes

  • Move the machine with your fingers

  • Hold your machine in an upright position


STROKE TECHNIQUES:

FEATHERING

ZIG ZAG

CROSS-HATCH

DOTTING

CIRCLE

LINE

OVALS


STEPS FOR MANUAL TECHNIQUE

To create a fine to bold line - The placement of the needles tips must be in total alignment, one behindthe other. The needles must be placed on the surface of the skin at the same time. The needles are ata 30 degree angle causing a snagging of the epidermal layers when the manual tool is moved forwardand up.Without applying any downward pressure, lift the tool off the surface of the skin in a forward/upwardcircular motion, always returning to the original starting point.Pigment is deposited into the elongated holes created by the needles snagging the skin. 

Repeating this tapping process. Remember every customer will take color differently, some customers will need less tapping and some will need more. The more times you go over the same area, the darker result you will achieve. This will ensure the necessary deposit for a long-term coverage. Repeating this process will create the look you wish to achieve. It is important to get adequate deposit quickly. Get enough pigment deposited; try not to going back and add to your deposit. Working on swollen skin, no matter how minimal it may be, will cause substantial pigment loss in the initial healing. If additional deposit is necessary, you should do a touch up in 30 - 45 days. 


The manual tool must always be used at an angle, which will allow the follow of pigment to run down into the skin. Used at the wrong angle will produce an inadequate deposit, guaranteed fading, and will require touch-ups. Keep in mind that stretching is very important. This allows more pigment to be pushed into the skin. You will need to stretch the skin in a three way stretch, much like an artist stretches the canvas around a wood frame. This will give you a smoother surface to work on. You will get a better implant of color with less pain for the client. Never push the needles into the skin. Pushing the needles in to the skin will deposit the pigment too deep. This will cause more pain than necessary. Set the tips of the needles on the skin and move them forward and up, creating holds for the pigment to flow into. When the needles release the skin, the holds close, rapping the pigment shallow in the epidermal tissue. Pigment implanted too deep will cause the immune system to protect the body again the invasion of this foreign matter in the dermal layer of the skin. This will heal by encapsulating (or surrounding the color deposit) with scar tissue. Encapsulation is the biggest cause of odd pigment shades and fading. The target area for placement of the pigment is within the top two layers of the skin or the epidermal layer. The deeper you go in the tissue, the more the immune system will resist the pigment.


Hold the skin in place. Any movement of the skin will make it more difficult to deposit color. Holding theskin in place will allow the needles to bend and release the skin when you move them forward and up.This prevents the needles from entering the dermal layer of tissue. The skin must not be loose. Remember to keep this area stretch and taut, like a drum, for best application.Check your pigment consistency. Your pigment must not be too thick or too thin. To check its consis-tency, clean your needles and dip them into your pigment. When you pull your tool out, the surfaceof the pigment should go flat. If the surface of the pigment is slightly “mounded” and not flat, yourpigment is too thick and must be thinned with color mix (glycerol.) 


If the surface of the pigment goesflat, then check to make sure that your needles are well coated. If you can see silver streaks long yourneedles, your pigment is to thin and more pigment should be added to the mixture. Pigment that is toothin will prevent you from achieving the adequate deposit necessary to sustain a long lasting design.Use gravity to your advantage: remember liquid only runs downhill. If you try to deposit pigment fromthe side of the eyebrow without turning your head the pigment cannot run down in to the holds. Yourtool must always be on top of the area being worked on.


EYELINER

PROCEDURES

The eyeliner procedure is applied in the outlining technique depending upon the desired results. For anatural look, popular among men as well as women, use a three needle. Lighter color shades of brownand taupe will result in a lightly smudged appearance. A smudged appearance in the upper lids cannotbe achieved due to the lack of subcutaneous tissue in the area. For a definite, bold line, use an outlin-ing technique. Use only dark colors for upper lids.


STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR EYELINER PROCEDURE

You have two different needle recommendations: Pen Machines and Manual Techniques. The Pen Machine is recommended at #3, #5 or 7 Prong I #3, #4 or #6 Flat and the Manual Technique is recommended at #12 Fine.


Note: Corneal abrasions are preventable with proper technique and numbing agents 

1. Client carefully reads and signs your Consent/Release Form. 

2. Consultation. 

3. Take before and after pictures (with makeup) 

4. Remove all of her eye makeup with eye make-up remover or baby wipe. 

5. Take “before” photograph (without makeup) 

6. Apply new eyeliner with pencil to show customer prior to beginning. 

7. Using a Q-Tip, apply a thick layer of Numbing Agent in the lashes and wait 10-12 minutes (mayneed re-application for sensitive clients). 

8. Remove with moist cotton balls or baby wipes. 

9. Rinse eyes with a saline solution and apply a Celluvisc drop (to draw anesthetic from around theeyes). Rinse thoroughly with Saline Solution (to neutralize anesthetic side-effects). Ask client toopen her eyes when she has adjusted to the light. Verify that her vision is normal and hereyes are not stinging before beginning the procedure.

10. Begin outlining at 3⁄4 of the eye (do not begin near the inside or out corner, those areas hurt themost). Using a Q-tip or microbrush applicator, apply Zone 2 as needed to control swelling anddiscomfort. 

11. Complete upper lids first, then do lower lids. 

12. Take ‘’After” photograph. 

13. Apply antibiotic ointment to area(s). 

14. Give client “Post Procedure” list of instruction, q-tips, Vaseline or A&D ointment


RINSE EYES THOROUGHLY THROUGHOUT THE PROCEDURE WITH THE SALINE SOLUTION IF NEEDED.


You may recommend your client to have a friend drive them home, but it is not necessary. Very seldomwill the client experience difficulty with vision. However, it is better to ensure their safety when drivinghome from your clinic. Remember to ask them to bring their sunglasses.Topical anesthetics are recommended for anesthesia. Injections tend to cause swelling and will distortthe area, making it difficult to ensure proper placement of pigment.It is very important to stretch the skin. Not properly stretching the skin will result in fading or loss ofpigment.Complications that may arise as a result of permanent eyeliner application will be discussed later whenwe discuss post-procedure client concerns.


REMEMBER: EYELINER WILL LOSE 40% OF COLOR ONCE HEALED. THEY WILL BE SWOLLEN FOR TWO DAYS.


Questions?

Contact Gaby on WhatsApp 

at+1 (626) 376-5269