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MICROBLADING

& BROW DESIGN

SCALPA BLADING TECHNIQUE STEPS

During the procedure, the eyebrow shape you drew will probably be erased! We recommend sitting the client on a chair and draw it again!! This ensures that you are working according to the required form while following the guidelines. Don't look for shortcuts, remember that the shape is the first thing that the client will see, even if the strokes aren't perfect!

STEP 1

Set up your area for procedure by cleaning, sterilizing, and making sure all surfaces are clean and ready for your client.

STEP 2

Prepare your blade, GON numbing/redness relief gel, pigment, pigment ring, gloves, cleansing wipes, SCALPA pencil, SCALPA scissors and SCALPA EZ BROW sticker or SCALPA measuring sticker.

STEP 3

Have your client read and sign medical history and consent forms before beginning the procedure.

STEP 4

Discuss exactly what your client desires, look at pictures, be specific about the instructions and describe things in details as much as possible so your client knows exactly what they are getting and you know exactly what they desire.

STEP 5

Take before pictures. Make sure to shoot from all angles with proper lighting to ensure that you don't miss anything when undergoing the treatment procedure.

STEP 6

Measure, design, clean and sanitize eyebrows and the entire area from excess hair if necessary.

STEP 7

Draw your design and mark your key areas, brow head, arch, core and tail. The stages of building and designing the eyebrows are very important! The client must sit on a chair in front of a mirror while you work on them. The client needs to see their face standing or sitting up in a normal condition and not lying down.

STEP 8

Wipe down the area with alcohol wipes, this will also disinfect the area for microblading.

STEP 9

Choose your SCALPA pigment choices.

STEP 10

Ask the client to lie down on the bed and begin your microblading strokes. Do the front head of the brow, then arch and then the tail. Leave your pigment on where hair strokes have been completed until the first pass has been completed. Apply GON numbing gel and move on to the second brow.

STEP 11

Do the front head of the brow, then arch, then tail. Leave your pigment on where hair strokes have been completed until the first pass has all been completed. Apply GON numbing gel and then move back to the first brow.

STEP 12

Remove the GON numbing gel from the brow with wipes and start your second pass by following the same strokes as the first pass. Apply more pressure if necessary to ensure that the pigment is being implanted into each and every stroke. Keep in mind that the skin becomes thinner from the middle until the end\tail of the brow. Apply more GON numbing gel as needed and complete the same steps for the second brow.

STEP 13

Your eyebrow should be almost complete, add any additional strokes if needed or a 3rd pass on both brows if necessary.

STEP 14

Sit the client on a chair in front of the mirror and make sure she is satisfied with her desired results.

STEP 15

Check your work and symmetry.

STEP 16

If you are both completely satisfied, apply the mask pigment on the eyebrows for 15-30min.

STEP 17

Wipe off the pigment mask gently.

STEP 18

Apply SCALPA REHAB.

STEP 19

Explain to the client the recovery process and give them the follow-up instructions and aftercare procedure.

STEP 20

Clean and disinfect your area. Make sure you wash your hands.

STEP 21

Take the after pictures. Make sure to shoot from all angles with proper lighting. It is important to save images from the entire process, it will give you marketing material to use. For more marketing material make sure you visit scalpainternational.com/branding

STEP 22

Make an appointment in advance for a month from that time for second procedure.


BROW

MEASUREMENT

EYEBROW DESIGN & MEASUREMENT

Designing the eyebrows is a very important step in your procedure, for some technicians this comes natural and easy, for others it takes time, so practice and pay attention to detail to create the perfect design (great product is scalpaezbrow.com for easier design guide). Some artists use the measuring tool more than others, but whatever works best for you and comes easier for you will make you more confident, also making the client feel comfortable during the entire design process.


TWEEZING & PREPARING THE BROWS

There are two methods you may want to use when preparing the brows:In the first method you will want to measure the eye brow, from point A, B & C and then you will start shaping the perfect brow based on the clients features and desired look. Then you start tweezing the brow to make it fit in the box to make it look more clean. You may want to use this method if the eyebrows are very thick because you may not be able to see your stroke if the brow is out side of your desired drawn shape.If the brows are thin, you will most likely use the second method. You can tweeze or trim the brows after you are done with the procedure if needed.



PLACING THE RULER

Now that you have placed the ruler, you need to identify where your client's eyebrows should start, arch and end.

STEP 1

Finding where the brow starts, Line 1: Use a ruler, pencil or any straight object. Position the ruler or pencil from the nostril side to the beginning of the eye. Continue up and mark the line that will show the starting points.

STEP 2

Finding the brow arch, Line 2 : Position the ruler or pencil from the nostril side to the middle eyeball. Continue up and mark the line that will show us the arch points.

STEP 3

Finding where the brow ends (Tail), Line 3 : Position the ruler or pencil from the nostril side to the end of the eye. Continue up and mark the line that will show us the end\tail point.

Once you have found and marked your 3 lines (1-start, 2-arch and 3- tail) , you can draw lines connecting the points to see where it is that you need to shape your brows and fill it in using your eyebrow pencil. This is only a guideline, many eyebrows will not exactly meet this ratio, so this is where your own design artistry and techniques will apply. You will use your ruler as your base guideline then design your arch and tails then perfect the brows according to client consultation and your knowledge based on clients features.


BUILDING

& POSITIONING


NATURAL EYEBROW THICKNESS

  • The ideal thickness desired should be between 0.5-1cm

  • The ideal length desired should be between 5-6 cm

  • The ideal arch point should be between 3-4 cm from the start point

  • The ideal tail length desired should be between 1.5-2 cm

MARKING YOUR EYEBROW DESIGN

  • It is important to know and understand the structure and parts of the eyebrow

  • Marked on the board is a top line that showes 6 cm and have divided it into 3 parts

  • Also marked another is a line on the side of the board which will show us the thickness

  • Let's begin by marking our starting point A1 . Go 6 cm straight across and mark the end of the brow which is point C

DRAWING AND DESIGN

  • In this method we will learn to draw an eyebrow with only 5 points

  • Marked on the board is a top line that showes 6 cm and have divided it into 3 parts

  • Also marked another is a line on the side of the board which will show us the thickness

  • Let's begin by marking our starting point A1 . Go 6 cm straight across and mark the end of the brow which is point C

  • go straight from A1 directly to C then stop in our arch line which is after two thirds (4 cm). Go up 0.5 cm and mark the arch point B1

  • Go straight from A1 directly to C then stop in our arch line which is after two thirds (4 cm). Go up 0.5 cm and mark the arch point B1

  • Let's go back to point A2 and we will do the same, mark the other arch point B2. Remember- arch points B1,B2 are the highest points of the eyebrow

  • Now all you have left to do is connect the lines in that direction : A1 to B1 to C, and A2 to B2 to C

CLICK BELOW TO DOWNLOAD BROW DRAWING PDF


SKIN

TIPS


STRETCHING THE SKIN

Stretching techniques vary from person to person. It is important to stretch the skin during the procedure to ease the client's pain and to assist with creating clean proper hair strokes. It is recommended to use 1 size smaller gloves than your hand size, so that the gloves fit tight as possible, you don't want your hand to move around in the glove as it will make it difficult to stretch the skin properly. Use your thumb, pointer finger and middle finger for stretching. Always stretch the skin in the same direction as the hair strokes, using your two fingers. You want to hold your SCALPA microblading tool at a 90 degree angle using your thumb and index finger while stretching with your middle finger. Using this angle will make sure as much pigment as possible is being applied and that there is no damage or tearing of the skin. Stretching the skin is very important and you should be sure you are stretching on every stroke.


CLIENTS SKIN DURING THE PROCEDURE

The depth of your blade going into the skin should reach 0.5 -1 mm. You must always consider thicker and thinner skin. Make sure when you are microblading your speed is very slow and the blade must stay consistent in the skin throughout each stroke. You want to begin with pressure and continue as you feather out at the end of each stroke. Each stroke should be a 1, 2, 3 count to be consistent and even. SCALPA U shaped blades create the finest strokes that are curved.You always want to hear the sound of the blade. If you don't hear the sound, that will mean that the pressure on the skin is very light.After you clean the area, you will see that the pigment wasn't applied properly to the stroke and red scratched line will appear without the pigment.If this happens, you can go back over the line with the right pressure and you will see the pigmentation absorb a lot faster.


HAIR STROKES

& DIMENSIONS

After you decide which shape you want the brow to be, start drawing the strokes.It is important to follow some key rules that will make it easier to microblade properly. The first will be the amount of pigment you apply on the blade. You have to put as minimal pigment as possible. This will allow you to work clean without messing the area so you can continue to see the shape clearly. The second is applying the pigment on the blade before each and every stroke you make.** Do not forget to stretch well. The hair stroke is achieved by implanting heavy strokes at the base and lighter strokes at the upper edge working in the same direction that the natural hair would grow. You still want to see some depression in the skin to achieve the proper implantation. Think of the motion as a dance, "Step one, two" or "implant, hold, Lift" when you hold it should be for about 2 seconds. Your hand comes up, away and lifts. Note: Make sure not to fill in 100% as it is the space between the hair that makes it look natural.


CLIENTS SKIN DURING THE PROCEDURE

Here you will see the subsequent stage of constructing the strokes in the open space of the shape that is drawn.


Let's start with drawing the strokes from the eyebrow head, point A. You will draw them from the small at bottom to grow slightly rounded. Continue on the lower part of the brow with strokes slightly rounded, which lie down as you approach the end of the brow. Draw the stroke line, one by one following the other, with the same spaces and enough room to add more strokes later. Notice the minimum amount of pigment that we need to work with on the blade. Now move to the upper part of the brow, draw rounded stroke lines and lie slightly toward the end of the brow, please pay attention in the fact that there is a change in the direction of the stroke drawing. Continue and add another layer of strokes in the lower part of the brow, with an emphasis on starting slightly higher and ending slightly higher than the previous stroke. try to connect them while touching each other gently. You will do the same process at the upper part of the brow and for a fuller look, add another layer of strokes in each part. It is important to pay attention to connecting all the strokes from both directions to the one line that's called CORE. Connect them in the form of flow rather than crossing.


All designs can be thicker or thinner depending on the client's preference but remember, do not go too thick or too dark on the first session, you can always go thicker and darker at the touch up appointment.Try to follow the guidelines that you learn here so that when you feel ready and confident, you can be more creative in the using these guidelines.


SHAPING THE

BROW PENCIL

SCALPA pencil sharpening is an easy process, all you need is a credo blade. You will take the blade and carefully scrape the sides until you get a sharp flat SCALPA pencil.

Disclaimer of Medical and Legal Liability: Scalpa training courses are intended to provide the general knowledge to perform procedures but is not intended to be a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Reliance on the information in this training course for procedural purposes is to be used at your own risk. If you have questions or concerns, contact a medical professional prior to treatment. Scalpa is not held responsible or liable for risks involved with this procedure. 

 

Scalpa strongly advises each member or student to research their local legislation. It is your sole responsibility to check and clarify all rules and regulations pertaining to your country, state, city and county if you are planning on performing our training program procedures as a professional. Because Scalpa is offered worldwide, we cannot guarantee this information. Please check with your local health department, governing boards and FDA regulations regarding performance of any Scalpa course procedure. Scalpa is not held responsible or liable for legal encounters regarding licensing, regulations, or other legal aspects pertaining to procedural operation.