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COLOR

THEORY

Color is one of the most complex and difficult things to predict the outcome in the practice of eyebrows. In this chapter we will cover the basics of color theory when it comes to implementing pigment into the skin. All skin is like a canvas in which we implant color. Each hue, shade, undertone and presence of melanin contributes to the color of the pigment which we implant into the skin.When we are working with pigment colors we must take into consideration the natural skins color and undertones which will all factor into our final color that will be microbladed into our client's eyebrows. It is very important that we always remember that microblading always heals a cool tone so we need to consider this factor when determining how much warmth to add to our final pigment color. Color is very important as your final color selection makes your first impression. You must get your color correct, there is no margin for error with regards to color. 


 This is why we need to factor in our three important steps, the Fitzpatrick Scale, the natural skins undertone and the chance of hyper-pigmentation We must be very careful when mixing colors as you can go too far or not mix them properly and not like the final result once pigmented into the skin. We strongly advise to use the higher end pigments now available on the market that are the colors we want, that are already cool or warm and that are meant to correct / neutralizes undertones we require. This makes us less anxious knowing that our result will always be what we desire instead of mixing and getting a result our client is not happy with. When using pigments you need to always consider adding a drop of warm \ cold color tones to your selected pigment, depending on client's natural undertone. 


THE FITZPATRICK SCALE

In a case that the client is naturally a warm tone, your pigment selection should be base on cold colors (olive base). If your selection contains only cold colors, recommended to add one drop of warm color ( Brown Velvet- a pigment on a heavy base of red) as an insurance to be safe and to balance the pigment. However If your selection contains a lot of warm colors, you must add a cold drop (Louie The 11 \ Black Diamond- a pigment on a heavy base of olive) as an insurance to be safe and balance as well. 


 In a case that the client is naturally a cold tone (asians and dark skin types), your pigment selection should be base on warm colors (Louie The 12, Louie The 13 and Brown Velvet). If your selection contains only warm colors, recommended to add one drop of cold color (Louie The 11 \ Black Diamond) as an insurance to be safe and to balance the pigment. However If your selection contains a lot of cold colors, you must add a warm drop ( Brown Velvet- a pigment on a heavy base of red) as an insurance to be safe and balance as well. 


 We can never be too sure how much cool tone the client's skin will pull from the microblading process it self, so just to be sure and for added insurance you can add a drop of Brown Velvet or Louie The 11 to your original pigment choice. Warm colors contain more red and cold colors contain more olive. When using the best, highest grade pigments on the market you don't need to worry about mixing colors and the errors that can and most likely will occur with mixing colors, you end up with a muddy dull color and possibly too much cool or too much warm. The newest and best pigment companies have amazing color choices to choose from for warm and cool skin tones, you choose your pigment color based on the clients undertone and skin color then add in Louie The 11. 

  • Scalpa's warm pigment (Red base) Brown Velvet, Louie The 12 and Louie The 13

  • Scalpa's warm pigment (Yellow base) 24 Karat

  • Scalpa's cold pigment (Olive base) Louie The 11, Black Diamond and African King

COLOR TRIANGLE

The Primary colors are Red, Yellow, and Blue. The Secondary colors are creation of mixing 2 primary colors together, or the contrasting colors, to make different hues. When mixing Blue and Yellow, you end up with Green. When mixing Blue and Red, you end up with Purple. When mixing Red and Yellow, you end up wit Orange. 

NEUTRALIZING/CORRECTING COLORS

Warm colors correct or neutralize cold color and the vice versa. For example, 


Brown Velvet (pigment with heavy red base) can correct\neutralize cold colors as Louie The 11, Black Diamond and African King. 


 Louie The 11 (pigment with a heavy olive base) can correct\neutralize warm colors as Brown Velvet.


WARM & COOL COLORS

Warm colors include: Red, Yellow, and Orange. Cool colors include: Green, Blue, and Purple.


STEPS TO CHOOSING THE CORRECT COLOR

The Fitzpatrick scale (Fitzpatrick skin typing test, or Fitzpatrick phototyping scale) is a numerical classification scheme for human skin color. The Fitzpatrick scale was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, a Harvard dermatologist, as a way to classify the typical response of different types of skin to ultraviolet light. Later it was updated to also contain a wider range of skin types. The Fitzpatrick scale remains a recognized tool for dermatological research into human skin pigmentation.


SKIN'S NATURAL UNDERTONE

There are three classifications for undertones: warm, cool, and neutral. If you have warm undertones, your skin will lean peachy, yellow or golden. If you have cool undertones, your skin will lean pink. Use either a neutral, warm or a cool modifier to our red, or blue. Undertones determine the level of warmth in a pigment. Existing formulas use the technique of microblading heals ashy, therefore we must always use naturally warm pigments depending on the brand you buy or add extra warmth to our color formula. To help you in determining the client's natural undertone you may press on the inside of the client's forearm and release.


TIPS

To learn and understand the pigments undertone, follow these steps:

STEP 1

Take 2 drops from the pigment that you are about to learn about.

STEP 2

Place 1 drop on a clean white paper and the other drop place on your skin.

STEP 3

Flatten it so you can see little transparency, wait a minute for the pigment to dry, then you will find out which colors consist the pigment.

HOWEVER YOU SHOULD USE A CORRECTOR/NEUTRALIZER TO INSURE.


In case you are unsure and confused about the pigment base/undertone, warm/cool, you should always add one drop from each corrector/neutralizer. This will balance the undertone and cause the pigment to be neutural. 


PIGMENT

COLORS


PLATINUM

This smokey brown pigment results in a beautiful brown grey tone after healing. Platinum is perfect for clients who have silvery toned hair who desire a cooler result. This pigment will keep you looking platinum and dazzling.


BROWN VELVET

A medium brown, on a orange-red base and considered as a warm color. It is recommended to use it as an additional to other colors and not as a clean color unless the client know and wants an extra brown red (redhead) warm effect pigment.


24 KARAT

A well-balanced honey blonde. This pigment is the lightest pigment in the SCALPA colors and we recommend to add a drop of other darker pigments, to get more visible tint. It’s suitable for blonde and light skin colors. This color is considered warm because he is on a yellow base.


LOUIE THE 11

A light brown pigment, base on heavy olive tone and considered cold color. Also used as a tool to corrector/neutralizer color. This pigment suitable for light brown hair colors to a honey brown. It gives a very gentle and natural look.


LOUIE THE 12

A rich light-medium brown pigment. This pigment contains red and considered as a warm color.


BLACK DIAMOND

A dark brown pigment. Base on olive tone and considered cold color. We use it in a case that our client wants dark result without red shades. We recommend to add a drop of Brown Velvet just to make sure it does not turn us into gray tone after healing.


AFRICAN KING

The darkest black brown color in the SCALPA family. Considered a very cold color. Usually we will use this color on dark skinned clients and we must balance it and add a drop of Brown Velvet to warm it, otherwise, it will heal to a blue shade.


COLOR

COMBOS

*** It is important to learn and recognize the pigments. What colors they contains and what tones they give. Once we have this knowledge, we can mix and use colors more easily. It is also very important to note in the client's portfolio which pigments we used during treatment. This information is important for getting the proper results and will help us in the next treatment for this client.




EXAMPLE 1

 Let's combine the 24 Karat Gold (warm honey) with Louie The 11 (cold olive.) This mix will give us the balance of light brown/blonde that we want to achieve. 24 Karat is the lightest brown pigment in the SCALPA colors. It’s suitable for blonde and light-skin colors. This color is considered warm because it is of a yellow base. A light brown pigment, base of olive tone and is considered a cold color. This pigment is suitable for light brown hair colors to a honey brown. It gives a very gentle and natural look. At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment of 24 karat gold for 15-30 min to lighten and warm it up a touch. This is the lightest pigment in our collection, also a tool to lighten other pigments.


EXAMPLE 2    

This client has a light skin color and medium-dark brown hair so we should use cold medium-dark brown tones.We will use Black Diamond- A dark brown pigment, which is a base of olive tone and considered a cold color. We will use this with Louie The 11- A light brown pigment, base of olive tone and considered cold color.** Add a drop of Brown Velvet just to make sure it does not turn into a gray tone after healing. Mixing the two colors together will give us a medium-dark cold brown color that client desires.At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30min of Louie The 12- A well balanced rich light-medium brown pigment. This pigment contains red and is considered a warm color.


EXAMPLE 3

This client wants her eyebrows to be fuller, longer and well shaped. she also want's to have them the exact tone like her natural hair color. She has a light skin color and a light brown hair color. We will use a light and cold brown tone. We will use Louie The 11- A light brown pigment, base of olive tone and considered cold color. This pigment is suitable for light brown hair colors to a honey brown. It gives a very gentle and natural look. At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30 min of the same pigment we used Louie The 11- A light brown pigment, base of olive tone and considered a cold color.


EXAMPLE 4

This client wants her eyebrows to be well-shaped and left completely natural. She has a light-medium skin color and a dark brown hair color. We should use cold medium-dark brown tones. We will use Black Diamond- A dark brown pigment. Base of olive tone and considered a cold color.** Add a drop of Brown Velvet just to make sure it does not turn into a gray tone after healing. Because we used a dark shade during the treatment, we will soften it a bit with a mask of the same tone but lighter, Louie The 11- A light brown pigment, base of olive tone and considered a cold color.


EXAMPLE 5

She wants the same color that matches her natural hair color, and she asked specificlly for a warm base on red. In this case we should work with 24 Karat Gold - A well balanced honey blonde. This pigment is the lightest brown pigment in the SCALPA colors. It’s suitable for blonde and light skin colors. This color is considered warm because it is on a yellow base. With Louie The 12- A well balanced rich light brown pigment that contain red and considered as a warm color. Mixing the two colors together will give us this light warm effect that she desires. At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30 min of the same mixing pigments we used. 24 Carat Gold with Louie The 12.


EXAMPLE 6

She has a medium skin color and medium brown hair with a warm shade, so we should use medium brown warm base on red tones. We will mix 80% of Louie The 13 - A well balanced rich medium brown pigment. This pigment contain red and considered as a warm color.The darkest brown pigment in the series of the SCALPA Louie series, with 20% Black Diamond- A dark brown pigment. Base of olive tone and considered a cold color. **The reason we added 20% cold dark brown is to balance and avoid extra red shades after healing process. At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30 min of the same mixing pigments we used. 80% of Louie The 13 with 20% Black Diamond.


EXAMPLE 7

She has a very light skin color and a light brown hair color. We should use a light&cold brown tones. We will use Louie The 11- A light brown pigment, base on olive tone and considered cold color. This pigment is suitable for light brown hair colors to a honey brown. It gives a very gentle and natural look. At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30 min of Louie The 11 with a drop of Black Diamond, just to darken the procedure up a bit.


EXAMPLE 8

She wants to have one tone lighter from her natural hair color.She has a light-medium skin color and medium-dark brown hair, so we should mix light-medium brown tones.Louie The 11- A light brown pigment, base of olive tone and considered a cold color. This pigment is suitable for light brown hair colors to a honey brown. It gives a very gentle and natural look. We use this with Louie The 13 - A well balanced rich medium brown pigment. This pigment contain red and considered a warm color. Mixing of these two pigments (cold&warm) will give us a balanced, light-medium brown color.At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30min of Champagne Diamond - A pure yellow pigment from the warm color family, a tool to lighten other pigments. This will give her the final lighter touch she desired.


EXAMPLE 9

This client wants her eyebrows to be thicker and well shaped. She also wants to have them the exact tone like her real natural hair color.She has a light skin color and very dark brown hair, so we should mix two different dark brown tones.We will mix Black Diamond- A dark brown pigment with a base of olive tone and considered a cold color. We will use this with African King - The darkest black brown color in the SCALPA family, this color has a base of olive tone and considered a very cold color. ** we must balance it and add a drop of Brown Velvet to warm it or it will heal to a blue shade.At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30 min of Black Diamond, this will leave it a solid dark brown.


EXAMPLE 10

She has a light skin color and a very dark brown-black hair.We will use African King - The darkest black brown color in the SCALPA family. Base on olive tone and considered a very cold color. Usually we will use this color on African American clients, so we must balance it and add a drop of Brown Velvet to warm it or it will heal a shades of gray.At the end of the treatment we will add a mask pigment for 15-30 min of African King with a touch of Brown Velvet (pigment with heavy red base) used as a tool to warm other pigments.


Questions?

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at+1 (626) 376-5269

Disclaimer of Medical and Legal Liability: Scalpa training courses are intended to provide the general knowledge to perform procedures but is not intended to be a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Reliance on the information in this training course for procedural purposes is to be used at your own risk. If you have questions or concerns, contact a medical professional prior to treatment. Scalpa is not held responsible or liable for risks involved with this procedure. 

 

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