SCALPA OMBRE TRAINING MODULE 3
Color is one of the most complex and difficult things to predict the outcome in the practice of eyebrows. In this chapter we will cover the basics of color theory when it comes to implementing pigment into the skin. All skin is like a canvas in which we implant color. Each hue, shade, undertone and presence of melanin contributes to the color of the pigment which we implant into the skin. When we are working with pigment colors we must take into consideration the natural skins color and undertones which will all factor into our final color that will be microbladed into our client's eyebrows. It is very important that we always remember that microblading always heals a cool tone so we need to consider this factor when determining how much warmth to add to our final pigment color. Color is very important as your final color selection makes your first impression. You must get your color correct, there is no margin for error with regards to color.
This is why we need to factor in our three important steps, the Fitzpatrick Scale, the natural skins undertone and the chance of hyper-pigmentation We must be very careful when mixing colors as you can go too far or not mix them properly and not like the final result once pigmented into the skin. We strongly advise to use the higher end pigments now available on the market that are the colors we want, that are already cool or warm and that are meant to correct / neutralizes undertones we require. This makes us less anxious knowing that our result will always be what we desire instead of mixing and getting a result our client is not happy with. When using pigments you need to always consider adding a drop of warm \ cold color tones to your selected pigment, depending on client's natural undertone.
In a case that the client is naturally a warm tone, your pigment selection should be base on cold colors (olive base). If your selection contains only cold colors, recommended to add one drop of warm color ( Brown Velvet- a pigment on a heavy base of red) as an insurance to be safe and to balance the pigment. However If your selection contains a lot of warm colors, you must add a cold drop (Louie The 11 \ Black Diamond- a pigment on a heavy base of olive) as an insurance to be safe and balance as well.
In a case that the client is naturally a cold tone (asians and dark skin types), your pigment selection should be base on warm colors (Louie The 12, Louie The 13 and Brown Velvet). If your selection contains only warm colors, recommended to add one drop of cold color (Louie The 11 \ Black Diamond) as an insurance to be safe and to balance the pigment. However If your selection contains a lot of cold colors, you must add a warm drop ( Brown Velvet- a pigment on a heavy base of red) as an insurance to be safe and balance as well.
We can never be too sure how much cool tone the client's skin will pull from the microblading process it self, so just to be sure and for added insurance you can add a drop of Brown Velvet or Louie The 11 to your original pigment choice. Warm colors contain more red and cold colors contain more olive. When using the best, highest grade pigments on the market you don't need to worry about mixing colors and the errors that can and most likely will occur with mixing colors, you end up with a muddy dull color and possibly too much cool or too much warm. The newest and best pigment companies have amazing color choices to choose from for warm and cool skin tones, you choose your pigment color based on the clients undertone and skin color then add in Louie The 11.
Scalpa's warm pigment (Red base) Brown Velvet, Louie The 12 and Louie The 13
Scalpa's warm pigment (Yellow base) 24 Karat
Scalpa's cold pigment (Olive base) Louie The 11, Black Diamond and African King
The Primary colors are Red, Yellow, and Blue. The Secondary colors are creation of mixing 2 primary colors together, or the contrasting colors, to make different hues. When mixing Blue and Yellow, you end up with Green. When mixing Blue and Red, you end up with Purple. When mixing Red and Yellow, you end up wit Orange.
Warm colors correct or neutralize cold color and the vice versa. For example,
Brown Velvet (pigment with heavy red base) can correct\neutralize cold colors as Louie The 11, Black Diamond and African King.
Louie The 11 (pigment with a heavy olive base) can correct\neutralize warm colors as Brown Velvet.
Warm colors include: Red, Yellow, and Orange. Cool colors include: Green, Blue, and Purple.
The Fitzpatrick scale (Fitzpatrick skin typing test, or Fitzpatrick phototyping scale) is a numerical classification scheme for human skin color. The Fitzpatrick scale was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, a Harvard dermatologist, as a way to classify the typical response of different types of skin to ultraviolet light. Later it was updated to also contain a wider range of skin types. The Fitzpatrick scale remains a recognized tool for dermatological research into human skin pigmentation.
There are three classifications for undertones: warm, cool, and neutral. If you have warm undertones, your skin will lean peachy, yellow or golden. If you have cool undertones, your skin will lean pink. Use either a neutral, warm or a cool modifier to our red, or blue. Undertones determine the level of warmth in a pigment. Existing formulas use the technique of microblading heals ashy, therefore we must always use naturally warm pigments depending on the brand you buy or add extra warmth to our color formula. To help you in determining the client's natural undertone you may press on the inside of the client's forearm and release.
To learn and understand the pigments undertone, follow these steps:
Take 2 drops from the pigment that you are about to learn about.
Place 1 drop on a clean white paper and the other drop place on your skin.
Flatten it so you can see little transparency, wait a minute for the pigment to dry, then you will find out which colors consist the pigment.
HOWEVER YOU SHOULD USE A CORRECTOR/NEUTRALIZER TO INSURE.
In case you are unsure and confused about the pigment base/undertone, warm/cool, you should always add one drop from each corrector/neutralizer. This will balance the undertone and cause the pigment to be neutural.
This smokey brown pigment results in a beautiful brown grey tone after healing. Platinum is perfect for clients who have silvery toned hair who desire a cooler result. This pigment will keep you looking platinum and dazzling.
A medium brown, on a orange-red base and considered as a warm color. It is recommended to use it as an additional to other colors and not as a clean color unless the client know and wants an extra brown red (redhead) warm effect pigment.
A well-balanced honey blonde. This pigment is the lightest pigment in the SCALPA colors and we recommend to add a drop of other darker pigments, to get more visible tint. It’s suitable for blonde and light skin colors. This color is considered warm because he is on a yellow base.
A light brown pigment, base on heavy olive tone and considered cold color. Also used as a tool to corrector/neutralizer color. This pigment suitable for light brown hair colors to a honey brown. It gives a very gentle and natural look.
A rich light-medium brown pigment. This pigment contains red and considered as a warm color.
A dark brown pigment. Base on olive tone and considered cold color. We use it in a case that our client wants dark result without red shades. We recommend to add a drop of Brown Velvet just to make sure it does not turn us into gray tone after healing.
The darkest black brown color in the SCALPA family. Considered a very cold color. Usually we will use this color on dark skinned clients and we must balance it and add a drop of Brown Velvet to warm it, otherwise, it will heal to a blue shade.
*** It is important to learn and recognize the pigments. What colors they contains and what tones they give. Once we have this knowledge, we can mix and use colors more easily. It is also very important to note in the client's portfolio which pigments we used during treatment. This information is important for getting the proper results and will help us in the next treatment for this client.
Setting up your machine properly is an essential part of your Scalpa scalp micropigmentation procedure. With our Scalpa Pen that you will receive in your training kit. This is one of the best machines we have found for doing Ombre procedures. It's light weight, easy to clean, simple to set up, and has low vibration, so your hand will not ache. When setting up your machine you will want to plug your machine into your power supply and also plug the switch in. From there you will simply plug the power supply into the wall.
When setting up your machine, you want your needle to stick out about 2mm, WHILE RUNNING. This is important because if you have your needle out 2mm when it's turned off it will be way too long. To adjust the needle length simply twist the bottom grip of the machine.