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Needles & Blades

The main function of permanent make-up needles is to penetrate into the protective layers of the epidermis and deliver pigment to the papillary layer of the dermis with minimal damage to the skin. This function entails certain requirements to selecting and using needles in permanent make- up procedures.

Needle/Blade Requirements:

First and foremost, they must be:   
  • High-quality

  • Sharp

  • Sterile and disposable for each client.

Needles for permanent make-up are produced from steel-alloy needle wire. They are sharpened, polished, individually packaged, and pre-sterilized.The success of every procedure depends on the sharpness and quality of a needle. Any contact with an external object will dull the needle and change its geometric form, which, in turn, will impede its penetration into the epidermal tissue and lead to trauma. For example, with the PMU machine switched on, when we dip the tip with the needle into a disposable container with pigments, the needle is dulled from the contact with the bottom of the cap.


There are many different needles on the market used for PMU procedures from needle cartridges for power operated machines to blades for manual use like microblading. Each needle has a different purpose for a different outcome. Understanding the different needles out there will help you better understand how to choose the correct needles for each procedure. While many of the needles on the market follow the same guidelines, they will vary with each manufacturer. AAI has provided the basic knowledge of these needle guidelines for your better understanding.   

Needle Size:

Each needle has a diameter, regardless of the device used. Diameter can be described as the individual needle size.

Needle Taper:

Each needle has a taper. A taper is the measurement of the needle point length and may be short, medium, long, or extra long. Short taper produces a larger puncture size with long/extra long creates a smaller puncture size.

Needle Count:

Configurations can be round, flat, and magnum. There are also cartridge-type and manual device configurations. 


Round liners is a grouping of needles that are soldered together so the points are close together. The result is more concentrated. 


Round shaders is a grouping of needles that are soldered together so that the points are further apart. The result is more spread out. 


Flat configurations are needles in a flat, linear pattern that are soldered together so that there is an exact space between needle points. 


Woven magnum is one row of needles that is woven in a way that gives the appearance of two rows. It has a wider configuration and is available in straight or curved. 


Stacked magnum is two rows of side-by-side flat needles with the smaller grouping placed on top of the larger. 


Cartridge-Type needle configurations are encased and inserted into the handpiece of a machine pen. The needles normally retract back into the encasement when the machine is in the off position. Cartridge needles come in all shapes and sizes such as liners, shaders and magnum! 


Manual Device needles can be arranged in flat or round configurations. These are configured specifically for eyebrow hair stroke patterns and may be smaller in diameter than the typical needle.

Needles & Blades


Handheld Manual Blades


Scalpa Needles and Blades

PRECISION NEEDLE

Designed for fine lines for creating brow strokes and eyeliner 

• 1RL configuration 

• Diamond cartridge 

• Precise impressions 

• Clear cartridge to monitor ink build up

LINER NEEDLE

Designed for lining the lips 

• Aerodynamic cartridge 

• Diamond cartridge 

• Precise impressions 

• Clear cartridge to monitor ink build up   

SHADING NEEDLE

This needle is specifically used for creating density with ombré eyebrows, filling in brows, and PMU lips. This will give you more coverage on the area and packing more pigment, saving time and creating a different impression. 

• 3RS configuration 

• Diamond cartridge 

• Covers more area 

• Clear cartridge to monitor ink build up 

14C BLADE

This is a great microblade for beginners because of its design. The straight curve line allows for fewer mistakes and fewer errors. Because it is bowed, you have more width but also more options to move around. With this microblade, you can apply a clean-cut straight light or be conservative with the curve if needed.   

18U BLADE

This blade offers great retention and depth while still allowing room for rotation as it is designed to bow outward. This is a perfect match for the master that wants to have fun with that extra level of freedom with their microblade.


OPERATING YOUR MACHINE

SPEED: 

OMBRE

Your machine speed should generally be set at a level 9. 


LIP

Your machine speed should generally be set at a level 9 - 9 1/2. 


EYELINER

Your machine speed should generally be set at a level 4-5. 

DEPTH:

Your needle should be sticking out 2mm. This is about the thickness of a nickel. 

GENERAL PMU MACHINE TIPS & TECHNIQUES:

The needle speed and hand speed are two related variables that influence your micropigmentation. Your needle speed or frequency determines the quantity of injections or dots per second implanted in the skin. Your hand speed determines the distance of the injections or dots implanted in the skin.


It is important to get a good balance in needle speed and hand speed. With a slow hand movement, you will get a denser implantation of pigment because the dots are closer together. With a fast hand movement you will get less implantation of pigment because the dots are further apart. 


When you doing a hair stroke technique and your needle speed is too high in relation to your hand speed, your hair strokes will become too thick. In that case you should lower your needle speed or raise your hand speed movement to create thinner strokes. 


When you are doing a lining technique for eyeliners, it is best to keep your hand speed movement slow to get a more dense pigmentation. In this case working slowly will give you better and faster results.   


Disclaimer of Medical and Legal Liability: Scalpa training courses are intended to provide the general knowledge to perform procedures but is not intended to be a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Reliance on the information in this training course for procedural purposes is to be used at your own risk. If you have questions or concerns, contact a medical professional prior to treatment. Scalpa is not held responsible or liable for risks involved with this procedure. 

 

Scalpa strongly advises each member or student to research their local legislation. It is your sole responsibility to check and clarify all rules and regulations pertaining to your country, state, city and county if you are planning on performing our training program procedures as a professional. Because Scalpa is offered worldwide, we cannot guarantee this information. Please check with your local health department, governing boards and FDA regulations regarding performance of any Scalpa course procedure. Scalpa is not held responsible or liable for legal encounters regarding licensing, regulations, or other legal aspects pertaining to procedural operation.