1. Ask your client what the ultimate goal is for the lip procedure. Are they happy with the current shape? Do they want them larger or smaller? Do they draw outside the vermillion border? Have they ever had dermal filler? Do they intend to keep this up? Are there any concerns?

2. Then determine the shape of the face. Is it round, square, oval or diamond shaped? This will help determine what shape will compliment the other facial features. Is there a defined cupids bow or is this something they draw on daily? Are the lips small? Are they symmetrical?

3. Look at other features -the shape of the eyebrows -are they round, flat or arched? Look at the eyes, nose, chin - are the other features sharp or soft? What will complement other features?

4. Example: If she wears her eyebrows very arched -a pointed peak of the cupids bow may elongate her face -especially if she has a pointed nose or chin.

5. Next, determine desired color -does they prefer cool colors (mauve or pink) or warm colors (brown, peach, coral or natural)?

6. Last, but not least -determine if there are blue or purple undertones. If so and they may want a cool color and you will need blue lip corrector added to your color.


  • Place a dot of each SCALPA  color you are considering across the top of a white piece of paper

  • It’s better to be too warm than too cool

  • All colors will heal with a bit of blue in the lips (use 24k  as a safeguard at times)


If your client has a history of fever blisters or has ever had a fever blister, advise them to pre-treat with VALTREX. A recommended preference is 10 days before procedure and 10 days after -a total of 20 days! The usual strength is 1000mg, but the doctor can make the determination. The client will need to explain that this procedure may set off an outbreak and therefore result in loss of pigment due to fever blisters. If they are prone to fever blisters and do NOT pre-treat, THEY WILL BREAK OUT! If they break out, scab and peel, they not only will have lost some color, but also probably traded the loss of color for a scar! Now you have a blank spot, and scar tissue to re-do, FOR FREE! Keep your customers informed!



Pre-numb the area prior to treatment with Scalpa Numb for 15-20 minutes. The corners of the mouth determine the general expression of the face. After marking your boundary outline, do a light pass by scratching lightly across entire lip to open skin up for Scalpa Gone. Apply a generous amount of Gone and wait five minutes. Set a time if you have to. 

Never begin in the corners, start off in a safe area. As the lips begin to swell, and they will, you might begin to doubt yourself and where your line is - DON'T! Swelling causes distortion, don’t let it fool you into thinking you missed your original mark. 

Work from one side toward the other. Most technicians work better with the machine coming towards themselves. Find your own comfort zone. After completing the entire lip color, always go back to the lip line to finish the procedure (start with the lip line, finish with the lip line). Finish the procedure off with Scalpa Rehab before the client leaves. 

After the eyes, the mouth is considered the second most noticed feature! The mouth plays a critical role in facial expressions.


1. Client carefully reads and signs Consent/Release Form. 

2. Consultation 

3. Clean procedure site with baby wipes. 

4. Take “before” photograph. (without makeup) 

5. Client draws on lip liner or you draw it on for them with a lip pencil. Draw lip liner on so you can get a visual of the lips. (Try to remember all the areas that seem different- focus on left and right sides to see if there are any differences or if one side has a higher or lower vermillion line) 

6. Once approved, apply Scalpa Numb and leave on for 15-20 minutes. (may need re-application for sensitive clients). DO NOT USE SURGICAL MARKER. 

7. Using Scalpa Liner Needle, begin outlining vermillion line. Without too much pressure or stretch, outline the boundary line on the outermost edge of your client’s penciled line. Stay within the line. Then, fill in the lip area if you are doing a full lip procedure with Scalpa Shading Needle. The line needs to appear solid. 

8. Apply Scalpa Gone to entire outline for 2-3 minutes. Now go over the entire upper and lower lip lightly. Once completed, apply Scalpa Gone to entire lip for same amount of time. 

9. Once again, go over the entire lip-line, upper and lower, applying more pressure. Go over at least 1-3 times (depending how dark customer prefers liner). 

10. Apply another layer of Scalpa Gone to entire lip area for a few minutes 

11. Once you have completed outline, start filling in the entire lower or upper lips. Remember the middle part of lips hurts the most, so begin doing outer part of lips working towards the center. 

12. Take “After” photograph 

13. Apply Scalpa Rehab to the site. 

14. Give client “Post Procedure” list of instructions and packet of Rehab. 


  • Stretch

  • Slow Down

  • Color

  • Bleeding

  • Swelling

Slow Down: Scalpa Machine Method - Let your machine do the work, the slower you move your machine the more times your Scalpa needles can enter in and out of the skin, implanting more Scalpa lip color. You want to place as many particles of pigment as possible under the skin by moving slowly. Multiple needles will aid you with better coverage faster.

Color: All lips are cool in nature. Make sure your choice of lip color will be dark enough to be visible through the lip skin after it has healed. Remember the skin is like a veil covering the color you implant. I recommend adding Scalpa 24k to any pigment that holds a blue or mauve base. This color adjustment is added to your chosen Scalpa pigment before you begin as a safeguard against healing into undertones.

Bleeding: Lip procedures bleed more than any other permanent cosmetic procedure. This is of no concern. A slight pressure on the area and the use of Scalpa Gone will cause the bleeding to subside while also continuously numbing the area. If the bleeding continues, check your needles for hooks or other needle damage.  Scalpa Gone will constrict the blood vessels and stop the bleeding immediately. 

Swelling: Lip procedures also swell more than any other cosmetic procedure. This is an area in which controlled technique holds great promise in color saturation and retention. I recommend that you go over the lip one time. Implant as many pigment particles as possible into a well stretched area and then move on. Once swelling starts to occur, you have decreased your chances of depositing pigment in the proper position by 50%. You will be able to go back over swollen areas but remember, the color will not implant as well and it is more painful for the client. It is important to get enough pigment implanted from the beginning.



If you are using the three SCALPA color blending (you may charge extra) - follow this:

  • Darkest color to outline

  • Medium color to blend down from line

  • Lightest color to feather and blend in 2nd color

If you are using one color, follow this:

  • Outline entire lip - 2-3 passes

  • Begin coloring on one side and work toward the other side

  • After completing one pass - repeat in opposite direction

  • The more you go over the line - the darker it will get

Your skin's dominate hue  or “skin tone” and secondary hue also known as “undertone” should be taken into account when you are choosing the color to implant. The color that is implanted into the skin will be seen through your skin tone - therefore - the color of your skin tone becomes a part of the color equation.



Thin Lower Lip. 

Extended curve of lower lip to balance.

Thin Upper Lip. 

Build up curve of upper lip to balance.

Thin Lips. Increase size of both upper and lower lips with a gentle, curving line.

Small Mouth. Build out sides of upper and lower lips and extend the corners of mouth.

Drooping Corners. Build up the upper lip at comers of mouth.

Large Full Lips. Keep lip coloring inside of lip line. Shade color off at sides. Keep corners very sharp and clean-cut.

Mouth Too Oval. Color the center upper lips into a slight cupids bow.

Sharp Cupid’s Bow. Fill in most of the Cupid’s bow; widen the sides of upper and lower lips.

Uneven Lips. Fill in areas as show on illustration.




FEVER BLISTERS: If your client has ever had a fever blister or a cold sore in her/his life, they will almost certainly break out with fever blisters after any lip procedure. In order to help prevent this from occurring, it is absolutely necessary that they obtain a prescription for Zovirax or Valtrex and take as prescribed at least one week prior to appointment and one week after appointment. They may also obtain the amino acid, L-Lysine, from their local drug store and take as directed for at least one week prior the procedure. Failure to follow these recommendations may result in a break out, which may last up to six weeks and lose color in that area. Follow using Abreva with aftercare routine.

PIGMENT RETENTION: It is extremely difficult to deposit permanent pigment in the tissue of the lips since the lips do not have pores as the rest of the skin on your face does. On the average, a permanent lip coloring procedure must be repeated an additional 2 times after the initial application, at intervals of no less than 3 weeks. The tissues of the lips are not ready to accept new pigment at that time.

It is rare to get perfect results with only one application and it is more likely that they will need at least one or two additional applications.

Since each person has a different chemical and genetic makeup, it is impossible for us to tell our client in advance exactly how much pigment retentions they can expect with each application or how many applications they will ultimately need. We promise to give them 100% pigment saturation with each application but the amount they retain is unpredictable.

Please remember the amount of pigment they retain or lose after each application is not a reflection of the quality of your work, but instead, on the chemical and genetic makeup, over which we have no control. If you have any questions, please feel free to call Bryce at anytime 585-478-1954.

CHARGES FOR ADDITIONAL APPLICATIONS: The price you quoted can include one touch up or does not include any touch-ups. The price quoted for the lip procedure is for their initial application unless you are giving them a touch up. For each additional application you can charge as little or as much as you want. Touch Ups generally do not take as long as the initial appointment due to the fact there is a lot of color implanted in the lip skin already.





  • Outline entire lip - 2-3 passes

  • Begin coloring on one side and work toward the other side

  • After completing one pass - repeat in opposite direction


Lip liner colors will fade at least 50%. Our bright red will heal a soft pink on the first session .


Anesthetic injections from a physician or dentist may cause swelling, distortion of the area, and make it difficult to establish a true lip line. It is recommended that the client establish a lip line prior to injection. It is important to advise the client of complications which may arise as a result of the lip liner full lip color procedure. Lips tissue of the lip is a muscle with tremendous blood flow -it will fade faster.


  • Sun

  • Skincare Products

  • After completing one pass - repeat in opposite direction

Liner -takes much better as mentioned above. 

Inner Lip -meaty takes less color. 

Face in General -go a bit shallower than body (prevents skin damage, migration).


Permanent Makeup is Permanent -The pigment particle remains under the skin but may fade over time. Some pigments are translucent and need to be layered to achieve the desired color.

Full lips -Normally takes 1 to 3 sessions. 1st session- may lose 60-70%. 2nd session- retains much more color, loosing about 40-50%. 3rd session -if necessary, will retain even more , loosing about 20-30%. 

Lips will vary in color on a daily basis -hot or cold, etc. You can only make a reasonable estimation as to the color it will pull once tattooed into the dermis. There is NO GUARANTEE that the color will stay as you see it.

When implanting into the epidermis, results will be softer. A good portion of pigment microns are lost in the healing process and the body’s 28-day cycle of rejuvenating tissue.

Do not stretch tight for the 1st pass, mainly marking the borders. If the client can stand it, go over the area twice! This will be the most uncomfortable pass. It is probably better to work toward the center on the upper lip.

 Never start in the very corner, we will tie this in later. Use a short scratching or scooting motion to set your liner in. Once you are comfortable with your borders, go ahead and scratch the entire lip to expose it to the Scalpa Gone. If you like it, go over the liner again and begin to fill in the inner part of the lip.


The needle speed and hand speed are two related variables that influence your micropigmentation. Your needle speed or frequency determines the quantity of injections or dots per second implanted in the skin. Your hand speed determines the distance of the injections or dots implanted in the skin. 

It is important to get a good balance in needle speed and hand speed. With a slow hand movement, you will get a denser implantation of pigment because the dots are closer together. With a fast hand movement you will get less implantation of pigment because the dots are further apart. 

When you doing a hair stroke technique and your needle speed is too high in relation to your hand speed, your hair strokes will become too thick. In that case you should lower your needle speed or raise your hand speed movement to create thinner strokes. 

When you are doing a lining technique for eyeliners, it is best to keep your hand speed movement slow to get a more dense pigmentation. In this case working slowly will give you better and faster results.  

Disclaimer of Medical and Legal Liability: Scalpa training courses are intended to provide the general knowledge to perform procedures but is not intended to be a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Reliance on the information in this training course for procedural purposes is to be used at your own risk. If you have questions or concerns, contact a medical professional prior to treatment. Scalpa is not held responsible or liable for risks involved with this procedure. 


Scalpa strongly advises each member or student to research their local legislation. It is your sole responsibility to check and clarify all rules and regulations pertaining to your country, state, city and county if you are planning on performing our training program procedures as a professional. Because Scalpa is offered worldwide, we cannot guarantee this information. Please check with your local health department, governing boards and FDA regulations regarding performance of any Scalpa course procedure. Scalpa is not held responsible or liable for legal encounters regarding licensing, regulations, or other legal aspects pertaining to procedural operation.